Yesterday was the day for Triana.
After spending a generous amount of time in Alcázar, and even though it was still, in Spanish terms, early for most, lunch was already in the brain for our little group, and I thought it best to look for our options across the river in Triana, which also happened to be the birthplace of flamenco. We luckily succeeded but certainly not for lack of trying. Strike one was modern-looking, set by the riverside Abades Triana that had its doors wide open, but we were politely told they wouldn’t be open till 2:30 p.m. Madre mia.
As we walked further along the river the idea of going deeper into the neighborhood struck, so after turning left into a cobblestoned alley, onto narrow, picturesque streets, we reached atmospheric Calle Pelay Correa, which was like a rough diamond in a sandy shore. In front of the Santa Ana Church was the leafy and very quiet Taberna la Plazuela where our group decided to stop for a break, and thankfully so as the food was just as good, and in a way even better, as the other places we’ve had so far.
We opted to forego dessert as I knew there was a great bakery close by, and not 5 minutes’ walk later we were at Manu Jara for some after lunch sweets.
Before crossing back to the other side of the river, there was still one final side trip to Calle Callao, a street where tile makers used to converge. Some are still there such as Ceramica Santa Ana, a huge space where a it looks like a tile bomb went off – it was floor to ceiling in every notion of tile.
Triana was a wonderful diversion that day and even if we didn’t get to see any flamenco dancing, it was great to be in the less touristy part of Seville and have the chance to mix, if not dance, with the locals.